Throw Yourself In

Here's a useful insight (and lots more good stuff if you feel like improving yourself):

There are some things that can't be approached gradually.

I surf, badly. One of the main reasons why I have a hard time is because surfing is about waiting for the right moment and then throwing yourself in, absolutely.

I resist throwing myself under several tons of falling water. I try to drag out the transition between not surfing and surfing, but it doesn't work that way.

This binary-type-experience paradigm is useful because it explains a point of failure that can be, otherwise, hard to diagnose.

People have spent a lot of time and energy giving me advice about how to surf (and a lot of it was helpful). But it's more useful just to accept that I'm going to have to act, not think, when that wave arrives.
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