Throw yourself in
Here’s a useful insight (and lots more good stuff if you feel like improving yourself):
There are some things that can’t be approached gradually.
I surf, badly. One of the main reasons why I have a hard time is because surfing is about waiting for the right moment and then throwing yourself in, absolutely.
I resist throwing myself under several tons of falling water. I try to drag out the transition between not surfing and surfing, but it doesn’t work that way.
This binary-type-experience paradigm is useful because it explains a point of failure that can be, otherwise, hard to diagnose.
People have spent a lot of time and energy giving me advice about how to surf (and a lot of it was helpful). But it’s more useful just to accept that I’m going to have to act, not think, when that wave arrives.